AITOR THROUP : Probably The Best Art-Fashion Designer

Aitor Throup was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina in 1980. He arrived in Burnley, Lancashire in 1992. It was in Burnley that Throup developed a passion for labels such as Stone Island and C.P. Company. A mixture of Aitor’s interest in these products and his own passion for drawing led him to begin a BA in Fashion Design at Manchester Metropolitan University, from where he graduated with first class honors in 2004. In 2006, he completed an MA in Fashion Menswear at the Royal College of Art in London. Aitor is fascinated with anatomy and his main interest is drawing. His hand drawn characters become the primary tool in the exploration of his ‘justified design philosophy’, which highlights the necessity of a reason or function behind all design features.

Aitor’s design process is centered around innovative methods of design and construction, in particular a construction process which utilises his own sculptures of the human body as a system for blocking garments. Throup’s graduate collection from the Royal College of Art was entitled ‘When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods’ which had a strong narrative thread running through it and a diverse selection of influences from generic military garments to Hindu symbolism. He exhibited ‘The Funeral Of New Orleans: Part One’, at London Fashion Week in September 2007.

The presentation of this collection defied conventional ways of exhibiting fashion, by showing the pieces on life size sculptures (also created by Throup) rather than models, each in a different stage of transformation. The presentation also incorporated a film created in conjunction with SHOWstudio, which acted as a sort of animated instruction manual, allowing the viewer to not only understand the transformational mechanics of each piece, but also to learn the narrative behind the collection. Aitor has won multiple awards over the years, including the ‘Collection of The Year Award’ and the ‘i-D Styling Award’ At ITS#FIVE (International Talent Support #5).

He has worked as an art director/stylist with i-D magazine, Arena Homme+, V-Man, and GQ Style, and he designed the cover for the December 2008 issue of Dazed and Confused Japan, which also included an 8-page portfolio of his work. His unique take on the fashion industry also questions the need for a cyclical structure of seasonal creative output. His efforts to challenge tradition and find new ways to express his vision has led to wide critical acclaim.

The well respected fashion journalist Tim Blanks has cited him as one of fashion’s most influential people. In 2008 Aitor collaborated on two special edition projects with Stone Island, which were presented at Milan Fashion Week: ‘Modular Anatomy’ and ‘Articulated Anatomy’. Aitor Throup began working as a creative consultant with the British football brand Umbro in 2008, which led to his involvement in the concept and design of both the ‘home’ and ‘away’ football kits worn by England at the 2010 World Cup.

At the 2009 edition of Milan’s ‘Salone del Mobile’ international design fair, Aitor Throup and C.P. Company launched the special 20th anniversary edition of the iconic Goggle Jacket (A driving jacket originally designed by Massimo Osti).

The re-design of this icon featured a fully ergonomic construction, based on a life-size sculpture of the human body in the driving position. It also featured a unique transformational articulation built into the pockets, which allowed the jacket’s structure to morph into a driving position when required.

In October 2009 a special exhibition at the Royal College of Art in London showcasing the process behind the design of this anniversary jacket, was curated by Aitor Throup. In early 2010, the jacket was nominated for the ‘Design of the Year’ award by the Design Museum in London. Aitor recently launched his product line for A/W 2010 on-schedule at Paris Fashion Week.

The presentation, titled ‘LEGS’ consisted of a retrospective of his various trouser concepts from the past six years, and culminated in a collection of three specially developed trousers (titled ‘Prelude’) which were exclusively exhibited and sold globally in a small number of boutiques and department stores including Selfridges in London. In 2011, Umbro and Aitor Throup launched their long awaited seasonal collaboration line, the Archive Research Project, which has been globally critically acclaimed.

For the launch of the collection, there was a special installation at London’s forward thinking store Dover Street Market. In July 2011, Aitor Throup was appointed Creative Director of British rock band Kasabian, resulting in the designer’s music video directorial debut for the band’s song ‘Switchblade Smiles’. Throup has also been involved in the design and art direction of all the band’s artwork for their fourth album ‘Velociraptor!’.

At London Collections: Men in June 2012 Throup announced and previewed his eponymous product line. The ‘New Object Research’ presentation was hosted by two of the most influential fashion ambassadors, Sarah Mower and Tim Blanks. The first complete ‘New Object Research’ offering will consist of 22 ready to wear archetypes. For more information, we invite you to visit his website at the link bellow.